880 SOUTH RAND ROAD
LAKE ZURICH, IL 60047
Closed on Saturdays
DISCLAIMER OF Dr. Daniel W Hamblin and OFFICITE
Dr. Daniel W Hamblin and OFFICITE expressly disclaims all warranties and responsibilities of any kind, whether express or implied, for the accuracy or reliability of the content of any information contained in this Web Site, and for the suitability, results, effectiveness or fitness for any particular purpose of the services, procedures, advice or treatments referred to herein, such content and suitability, etc., being the sole responsibility of parties other than Dr. Daniel W Hamblin and OFFICITE, and the reliance upon or use of same by you is at your own independent discretion and risk.
It's worth committing a lot of attention to creating the perfect home for your amphibian or reptile to ensure its safety and because they are great hiders when they escape! Key determinants for how to house your species are its adult size, activity level and natural environment.
To ensure the pet has enough room, you need to create a space that can accommodate its adult size and activity level. For example, many snakes grow 6 to 8 feet long and while they can curl up, it is important for them to be able to stretch their lung(s). Yet some large snakes, such as pythons and boas (which can grow to 20 feet long), tend to be lazy and won't need space to stretch to their full length. Meanwhile, other smaller snakes, such as garter snakes, are active and fast, demanding plenty of room for their mischief-making. A typical iguana has a snout-tail length of about 6 to 9 inches as a hatchling, but can grow to 45 to 60 inches in five years and may need areas in the enclosure for sunning, swimming, sleeping, hiding and climbing. That means you'll need a large tank and enclosure from the start.
Each reptile needs to have its enclosure mirror its natural environment. That may mean aquatic space for reptiles to swim and cool down; arboreal space with branches and roosts that imitate a woodland environment; fossorial space for reptiles that burrow into the ground for cooling or sleeping; scansorial space for reptiles accustomed to basking, eating and hunting on rocks; riparian space for reptiles that swim in water but feed, sleep and bask on dry land; and terrestrial space for non-aquatic reptiles that need different types of land areas, such as rocks, branches and caves.
Different enclosures work for different individual or combined types of environments:
Some other rules of thumb for reptile enclosures are:
Many reptiles are ectothermic, which means they can't regulate their own body temperature. To keep them in captivity, you'll need to control the surrounding temperature and humidity to reflect their natural environment. Each species has its own temperature tolerances, which need to be in sync with their sleep and activity cycles. For some reptiles, that may mean a temperature range of up to 10 degrees difference at different times of the day or night.
In nature, many animals regulate body temperature by moving in and out of sunny areas, shady areas, cooling water or burrowing into the ground. Your enclosure will need to accommodate these needs for your animal. For most reptiles, your enclosure will need a thermal gradient — a built in temperature range across the space from warm in one location to cool in another. There are a variety of heating devices and alternatives you can use, ranging from submersible heaters for aquatic animals to basking lamps, ceramic heating elements, ambient heating and space heaters. It is important to keep the heating elements out of your pet's reach to prevent accidents and burns.
Effectively heating the enclosure requires the use of thermometers. Plan on using at least two thermometers; place one at each end of the enclosure in order to measure temperatures at each end of the gradient. Although temperature charts offer a benchmark for each species, your pet might respond better to particular temperatures at different times of the day and in different seasons. Keep a chart and track temperatures at both ends of your pet's enclosure at various times throughout the day and night. Watch how your pet responds at these times so that you can determine ideal temperatures for it. You'll also have to make sure your humidity levels are relatively consistent. So when you use central heating in your home during the winter, you'll need to provide added humidity to the enclosure. This may be as simple as spray misting the environment daily.
Basking lamps are a good solution for reptiles that need sunning. They can be mounted on top of the cage or enclosure. Be sure that the animal cannot come into contact with the lamp to prevent burns and other accidents. One of the advantages of basking lamps is that they can provide full spectrum lighting during the day and be used as a blacklight (a red, frosted bulb) to simulate and ensure adequate darkness.
Ceramic heating elements need special sockets, but otherwise screw in like any other light bulb. They provide heat, but no light. They can be mounted on top of the enclosure as well. Another technique used to create an overall heating element, particularly for water environments, is under tank heating pads or tapes. Your gravel substrate responds to the heat below it and warms the water.
Please note: It is not advisable to use hot rocks as they can overheat and cause burns and other injuries to your pet.
Most reptiles need full-spectrum lighting, which imitates the sun, in order to maintain their health. There are two common lighting solutions used for reptile enclosures:
Please note: Some animals, such as lizards, must have exposure to natural sunlight, which requires the use of fluorescent bulbs. Be sure to learn about specific heating and lighting needs for your chosen pet.